NEW YORK TIMES REVIEW OF THE
KALOANG KITCHEN RESTAURANT IN BANGKOK

Kaloang Seafood
2 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., Bangkok, Thailand
Phone: 02-281-9228
$4 to $10

This local favorite is a little off the beaten track, but it's worth the effort if you want the genuine flavor of riverside Bangkok and good seafood as well.

Beginning at the National Library, a soi leads down to the open-air restaurant, built on a ramshackle pier. Fans and the breeze off the river keep things comfortably cool most evenings.

The more observant customer will notice right away that almost all the waitstaff are transvestites.

Service is friendly and competent, if initially somewhat disconcerting.

The grilled seafood platter is both generous and cheap, and the grilled giant river prawns are also a bargain.

Try the yam pla duk foo. It is rather spicy, but it complements cold beer as few things in this world do.

AE, DC, MC, V.

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